Citrus fruits are one of the most popular fruits in the world. Citrus oranges were first cultivated in China in 2400 BC. C. and were originally cultivated in India, Southeast Asia, and southern China. Citrus offers a wide range of juicy fruits, including oranges, lemons, and grapefruit. You can grow yours at home, even if you live in a colder climate. Here are some helpful tips for growing these tasty trees.
Health Benefits
Lemon oil due to its wonderful fragrance, used in aromatherapy.
They are most well known as a source of vitamin C, which strengthens the immune system and allows the body to fight diseases and infections.
Vitamin C presence within citrus protects the body from colon cancer by destroying free radicals which effects our DNA.
Eating an orange every day can help the skin looking younger with age.
The carotenes and Vitamin A within support the health of the eyes.
Vitamin B6 in Citrus helps the body to produce hemoglobin which is important in the blood. This naturally balances blood pressure.
Eating higher amount of citrus fruits such as oranges, or grapefruits has the ability to lower the risk of ischemic stroke in women.
Citrates within are believed to help prevent the formation of kidney stones and can also help to reduce the size of existing stones.
Eating these fruits regularly will also supply your body with B Vitamins, Pantothenic acid, folate, Calcium, Copper, and Potassium.
Planting Citrus
Site Selection
Citrus fruits should be planted in a sunny location sheltered from the wind.
In the Citrus Belt (a loosely defined area stretching from Southern California to Florida) trees can be planted at any time, but spring is the best time for potted plants.
Standard size citrus fruits should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus fruits should be spaced 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the greater the distance.
If the soil is not well drained, plant the trees in a small mound to avoid waterlogging.
How to Plant?
Do not dig the planting hole deeper than the roots of the purchased tree. The hole can be slightly larger than the root mass. The hole may be slightly wider than the root ball or loosen laterally beyond what is needed for the width of the root system.
In most soils, a mixture of seeds is not necessary. Simply backfill with native soil, making sure there are no clumps causing air pockets around the roots. Consider the nutritional modifications that may be part of the filling right now. DO NOT put conventional (commercial) fertilizer in direct contact with the roots. Some organic and natural materials can be viewed with caution. Mulch, compost or organic matter will serve the trees better when applied to the surface around the trees after planting rather than mixed with backfill.
Plant the tree slightly high to allow it to sit in the hole. The darker color or spot on the trunk below the bud junction usually indicates the original soil level. Orient the inside of the trunk curve (the concave curve immediately above the bud junction) north or northeast to reduce heat stress and sunburn on the trunk curve above the junction ; the sun is less able to directly reach the young bark and the trunk when oriented. Using the best clod-free and friability-free soil available on site, the backfill leaves no air pockets around the root system. After compaction, the soil level next to the trunk should be equal to or lower than the level at which the tree grew in the nursery field.
Care
A few weeks after planting and during the first years (before fertile age), give the tree a balanced fertilizer (type 6-6-6). Learn more about soil amendments and preparing the soil for planting.
For new trees, provide nutrients to continue the growth of branches and leaves, but also to replace nutrients lost during fruit set. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check the manufacturer’s instructions, ask a nursery, or check with your local cooperative extension to find out how often and how much fertilizer to apply in each year a tree grows.
Mulching is not recommended for citrus, but if the trees are located in a cultivated bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare soil between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides can be used to prevent germination of weed seeds.
Fruit thinning is not necessary for citrus fruits, as they typically experience what is called “June drop”. In late spring or early summer (May or June in most parts of the country), citrus fruits naturally drop some of their unripe fruit.
Harvesting Citrus
Depending on the climate, citrus fruits can take 6 to 8 months to ripen.
Citrus fruits will not ripen on the tree, so avoid picking them too early.
The best indicator of maturity is taste.
Harvest the fruits by cutting them with pruning shears or pulling the peduncle off the tree.
Citrus fruits in good condition can be stored for several weeks at cool temperatures.
Disease, Pest, and Their Management
Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporioides)
Twig dieback; premature leaf drop; dark spots on fruits; leaves and twigs covered with dark spores.
Management
If the disease is harmful, appropriate fungicides should be applied to the entire tree.
Armillaria Root Rot (Armillaria mellea)
Trees can suddenly wither and collapse or slowly decline; the leaves become chlorotic and fall from the tree; if large parts of the roots are destroyed, the entire canopy is affected; the trunk may have an area of rotten bark at the base; lesions on the trunk resemble Phytophthora gummosis; Clusters of fungi may be present at the base of the tree, and there are often fan-shaped mycelial mats between the bark and the wood.
Management
The disease is difficult to control once it takes hold in a garden; affected trees showing signs of decline should be removed with as many roots as possible; the area where the infected tree was located should not be replanted with healthy citrus for a period of at least one year; Spraying the soil can help reduce soil inoculum, but it is not always completely effective.
